A 10 step guide to creating stunning floral displays in your garden
We have all been amazed by beautiful borders, whether we see them when we visit a great country house or when we admire Monty Don’s garden at Longmeadow or see those incredible show gardens at the Chelsea Flower Show. Yet when we look at our own borders, we are sometimes less than impressed.
Sometimes our attempts to make our gardens beautiful somehow never seem to work. What we plant looks out of place or at worse, sadly dies.
So here to help is a nine step method for creating great borders.
You cannot hope to create a fabulous planting border unless you know the conditions that plants face once they are in your garden. The following list explains what you must consider.
This is one of the most important things you need to know, to find out your garden’s soil type.
This is a complex subject which deserves a blog post in it’s own right but if you know what type of soil you have you can then choose plants that will thrive there.
There are four main soil types:
Your own garden soil could be a mixture of these types, a sandy-loam for example.
For more details on soil types have a look at this article from the RHS.
Note: your garden may have different soil types in different areas. My own garden is predominantly a free-draining sandy-loam, but a I have a spot that has a high clay content and another area that is very sandy indeed.
The pH scale is the measure of acidity and alkalinity in the soil.
Some plants are happier in different pH conditions.
Rhododendrons prefer acid soils, whilst Lavender, Honeysuckle and Lilac prefer Alkaline soils.
You can measure the PH of your soil using a soil testing kit, or a measuring probe.
How wet does your garden get to be – is it saturated with rain all year or is it a parched desert.
Growing thirsty plants in very dry conditions will not be successful unless you are prepared to regularly water them or provide irrigation.
Is your garden open to the elements, is it sheltered or a mixture of the two?
Wind exposure causes havoc with plants, it can desiccate leaves, dry the soil or rock the roots.
Even the most sheltered plot can have wind tunnels that cause isolated damage.
A sloped garden has its own complications – rainfall may wash away nutrients from the top of the slope and water may run in rivulets and damage plant roots. At the bottom of the slope or in dips in the garden, water may collect in pools in warmer weather or become frost pockets in the winter.
How much sunlight does your garden and house get and when?
In the Northern Hemisphere the tilt of the earth means that south facing walls or fences get the most sunlight, whilst north facing walls remain in shadow. This reverses south of the equator. East and West facing walls area also affected differently. East facing walls get the morning sun which though bright is still quite cool, West facing walls get the full force of the afternoon sun and can get very hot.
Away from the walls in the centre of the garden are areas which get sunlight all day these, especially lawns, can become very dry and parched.
As the day progresses certain parts of your garden dip into shadow. In the morning, long shadows are cast from north and west facing walls with the east and south facing walls enjoying the sun. As the day progresses the west facing walls become bathed in light, the east facing walls descend into shadow whilst the south facing wall still remains in the sun. North walls get very little sunlight at all. This also changes throughout the year with longer shadows in the winter and more sunlit areas in the summer.
How warm or cold does your garden get and for how long. In the height of summer when the days are long and warm it is easy to forget the damp and icy conditions of winter. Tender summer plants can suffer and die in icy conditions.
In our gardens most of the plants that we buy end up perishing because they are planted in areas or conditions unsuited for them.
A sun loving plant will struggle in the shade, an acid loving shrub such as a rhododendron will suffer in alkaline soil.
This can be countered for example, by growing a shade loving plant in a less sunny area or growing plants that are happy in particular soil conditions. Similarly it is advisable to grow plants that can tolerate wind in exposed places.
Now you know the conditions and issues that can affect your plant you need to make notes on where these problems occur.
If you are able to, take a year to do a site analysis. Note things like:
Before you consider adding your plants, you need to make a plan of your garden or bed.
This topic is a little too long to fit in this post so here is a link to the best online description of how to do it, courtesy of the garden design college I graduated from: Oxford College of Garden Design.
Now you have your plan and know what conditions your garden has you can plan the plants and trees that will fill your space. Initially you need to decide on the larger plants that will give your garden form and structure.
Your neighbours may have trees or shrubs in their garden which may look interesting and are visible from your own site. Or their may be views to distant hills or woodlands that are worth looking at. This borrowing of external views can make it easier to design a space. You can make that beautiful scene or your neighbours fabulous shrub look like they belong in your garden own by creating structured planting that frames or accentuates those views.
Plants come in four main types
Note: The plants in the above diagrams have been added in groups. Grouping plants (in odd numbers) is a great way to get a professional looking planting scheme. It creates a more natural look, is easier on the eye and many plants look better amongst their fellows than they do on their own.
For a little more information on how to create a planting plan have a look at this video from my own garden design tutor: Duncan Heather.
Plants come in many different shapes – known as forms. Each of these creates a different effect in the planting sceme.
Note: Fastigiate means having the branches more or less parallel to the main stem
Flowers come in many varieties and forms. How these combine together can make a border look wonderful. Amongst these are the herbaceous perennials which can change shape dramatically throughout the year.
There are six universally accepted flower categories as devised by Piet Oudolf and Nöel Kingsbury.
The colour wheel is split into different categories
Harmony uses adjacent colours
Contrast uses opposite colours on the wheel
Here are some examples of using harmonious colour schemes
hese combinations use colours opposite each other on the colour wheel
There are nine golden rules of planting
Popular reliable choices are:
Primary or larger focal points, like a tree, draw the eye from a distance and tempt you to explore the space around them. Up close the tree becomes a backdrop so you will need have a set of secondary focal point to draw they eye once you are there. Also include plenty of smaller scale accents or tertiary focal points in the border to add interest when you are looking at the planting up close.
All the above tips and rules will not work unless you know the details of the plants and trees you hope to add to your garden. Do your research look for the type of plants that you want to use and check if they will work in your garden.
There are a number of online resources that I like to use myself for plant research these being:
Larger online nurseries are also useful sources of information, notably
Three books I can’t do without
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